Experiences

Stories, guides, and insider knowledge from the continent.

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Born Free, Still Wild: Elsa's Kopje and the Lioness That Named a Park

Born Free, Still Wild: Elsa's Kopje and the Lioness That Named a Park

Built into the hill above George Adamson's old camp, Elsa's Kopje keeps watch over the park where Born Free began — a wilderness of thirteen rivers and a hundred rhinos that almost no one ever sees.

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The Elewana Collection
4.8 Square Kilometres of Sky: The Three Faces of Loisaba
|7 min read

4.8 Square Kilometres of Sky: The Three Faces of Loisaba

On a single Laikipia conservancy, Loisaba offers three ways to disappear into the same wilderness — a clifftop camp with an ambassador to each room, the most exclusive tents in East Africa, and a handcrafted bed rolled out under the open sky.

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Three Camps, One Migration: Reading the Serengeti by Season
|8 min read

Three Camps, One Migration: Reading the Serengeti by Season

The Serengeti is not a place so much as a clock — the great herds moving in a slow circle through the year. Elewana keeps three camps along that circle, each one holding a different chapter of the journey, so that where you stay becomes a question of when you come.

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The Land That Keeps Its Rhino: Lewa, and the Conservancy You Can Stay Inside
|8 min read

The Land That Keeps Its Rhino: Lewa, and the Conservancy You Can Stay Inside

Lewa is not a park you visit so much as a working idea you stay inside — a UNESCO conservation flagship that holds more than a tenth of Kenya's black rhino. Two Elewana camps offer two ways to inhabit it, and the difference between them is the whole story.

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Where the Elephants Have Names: Tortilis Camp and the Shadow of Kilimanjaro
|7 min read

Where the Elephants Have Names: Tortilis Camp and the Shadow of Kilimanjaro

On a hill at the south-western edge of Amboseli, in a private conservancy of its own, Tortilis Camp looks out at the highest mountain in Africa — and at elephants its guides can call by name.

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Breakfast on the Water: Kilindi Zanzibar and the Domes by the Sea
|6 min read

Breakfast on the Water: Kilindi Zanzibar and the Domes by the Sea

On the north-west coast of Zanzibar, fifteen white domed villas stand scattered through fifty acres of tropical garden above a private beach — a place built less for spectacle than for the slow recovery of time.

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Yesteryear in the Conservancy: Two Classic Camps of the Masai Mara
|8 min read

Yesteryear in the Conservancy: Two Classic Camps of the Masai Mara

Two camps hold the golden-age idea of safari from opposite ends of the Mara — one where elephant walk through camp by night, one built in late-1920s style directly on a migration crossing. Both are arguments for doing less, more slowly.

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A Room in the Baobabs: Tarangire Treetops and the Elephant Capital
|7 min read

A Room in the Baobabs: Tarangire Treetops and the Elephant Capital

Rooms raised on platforms among baobab and marula, a luxury treehouse alone in 312 square kilometres of private wilderness, on a path the elephants have walked for longer than anyone can say.

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Cape-Dutch in the Crater Highlands: The Manor at Ngorongoro
|6 min read

Cape-Dutch in the Crater Highlands: The Manor at Ngorongoro

An old-world country estate of gabled white walls and clipped lawns sits in the green Ngorongoro highlands, on a working coffee plantation — manor-house grandeur as the threshold to the eighth wonder of the world.

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From Tree to Cup: Arusha Coffee Lodge and the Art of the Gateway Night
|6 min read

From Tree to Cup: Arusha Coffee Lodge and the Art of the Gateway Night

On the edge of Arusha, inside a working coffee plantation, the last comfortable bed before the northern parks turns the obligatory gateway night into something worth slowing down for.

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The Angama Collection
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